Archive for the 'Tips' Category

Advice for Larger Gigs

Tuesday, June 6th, 2006

I’m often asked for tips by people who are off to shoot their first large gig (Arena, Stadium, etc.).
If you look back at my earlier tips, you’ll see that I heavily recommend starting small with a local venue and building up slowly. For whatever reason, people often don’t do this before having an opportunity to shoot a big-name band.

  • If possible, get the phone number of the tour manager in advance. It’s common for mistakes to happen such as your name not being down for the photo pass you were promised. A quick call to the tour manager can help. Also, make sure you have a record of who promised you the pass. A printed email can really help here.
  • It’s the tour manager who decides the conditions of your shooting. If you are allowed 3 songs no flash, that’s decided by them. If the tour manager has agreed to anything unusual such as flash, or more than 3 songs, or getting on stage with the band, you must make sure that the tour manager has told the head of security. If you’re allowed on the stage, you must also check with the main sound technician.
  • Be friendly to the security team. If you do this a lot, you’ll start to recognise the same faces at many different venues and events.
  • Don’t be intimidated by the other photographers. Just focus on what you’re doing. Don’t feel you have to be where they are, use your own unique vision.
  • If one of the performers goes to the side of the stage, all the photographers tend to follow in a pack. Sometimes, it’s good to just go to the other side away from all the other photographers to wait for the performer to come to your side. You’ll then have a prime spot.
  • Don’t be afraid to chimp (keep checking your histogram). There’s nothing worse than getting home and realising you’ve overexposed everything. Don’t look at the photos though, just quickly check to make sure your exposures are good and make sure you do this when nothing is likely to happen on stage for a few seconds.
  • Make sure you have a fresh battery and a fresh card. Have backups of both just in case.
  • Backgrounds are everything… keep moving yourself so the background complements your composition. Look for parts of the backdrop which will look good in the shot, and try to get your performer with them. Try to avoid scaffolding, or anything which makes the composition look too cluttered.
  • Bring out the lighting. If there is a particular spot on the stage where the face is lit well, make sure you’re ready every time the performer goes near that spot. Good concert photography is about good lighting, make the most of it. Lights behind the performer (especially behind hair) create lovely backlighting effects, but you usually have to run about and anticipate this.
  • Sometimes at festivals you’re allowed stepladders. Keep one in the boot of the car. They’re invaluable with high stages and shallow pits. Otherwise, find something to stand on. Some photographers stand on a flight case.
  • Start the gig with spot-metering. Meter off the skin tones. F2.8 for shallow depth of field to isolate your subject. Aperture priority. Keep an eye on the shutter speeds. Ideally you want about 1/160 to 1/200. No less than 1/125. Keep adjusting your ISO to match these speeds. When you have a reasonable idea of the lighting, switch to manual exposure.
  • If you’re shooting JPEG, saturation contrast and sharpening should all be on -2. JPEG vs RAW is a big topic, I won’t cover it here!
  • Don’t keep putting the subject in the middle of the shot. Be imaginative. Use rule of thirds, especially with the eyes.
  • Always focus on the eyes. Get a focus lock, and very quickly recompose the shot. If the performer is really moving very fast, I occasionally set the camera to continuous auto-focus and move the focus point to the side so I’m not constantly putting the subject in the middle of the shot. Otherwise, I always set the camera to use the centre auto-focus point.
  • Get NeatImage or similar. This is software that reduces the noise caused by high ISOs. I couldn’t live without it. It should be the first step in your post-processing at ISO 400/800 or above.
  • Shoot moments with special chemistry. Many people take photos that look like they could have been taken at any point through the gig. It’s all about timing. That special smile, that grimace at the end of a solo. That gesture at the beginning of a song. The look between 2 performers when they’re really getting into it, the scissor kick, the hand in the air… these are the sorts of things you need to look for. Don’t just grab any old shot.
  • The performer should always be looking into the frame. Don’t put them on the edge of the shot looking out of the photo.
  • Don’t obscure anybody’s face with a microphone. Move yourself until you can see the whole of their face. Or wait until they move away from it. Sometimes you can only get this in-between songs. Be ready.
  • Don’t chop the hands off. If you’re going to include the arms and hands, it’s really painful to see the edge of the hands or the fingers missing. Hands are very expressive and it’s worth staying conscious of how they affect the composition of your shot.
  • It’s not just about the performers, take loads of photos of the audience and show the atmosphere. What kinds of people are at the gig? Are there lots of ‘characters’? Show some context.

Tip#14 Archetypes

Monday, February 20th, 2006

I have a personal theory that many bands owe their success to the way they communicate through archetypes. According to Carl Jung, an archetype is a model of behaviour that comes from the collective unconscious… in more simple english it’s a recognisable role that someone might play in life that has a resonance with other people.
I will post a list of archetypes below (from Caroline Myss’ website) which should cover the most frequent ones. I’m sure you can recognise many bands in there. Take a look at the link for more details about each archetype.
If you’re a band thinking of having a photo shoot, I would suggest having a look at the list… see which ones apply to you and then it will make choices about visual imagery much easier.

Addict (Conspicuous Consumer, Glutton, Workaholic)
Advocate (Attorney, Defender, Legislator, Lobbyist, Environmentalist)
Alchemist (Wizard, Magician, Scientist, Inventor)
Angel (Fairy Godmother/Godfather)
Artist (Artisan, Craftsperson)
Athlete
Avenger (Avenging Angel, Savior, Messiah)
Beggar
Bully (Coward)
Child: Orphan
Child: Wounded
Child: Magical/Innocent
Child: Nature
Child: Puer/Puella Eternis (Eternal Boy/Girl)
Child, Divine
Clown (Court Jester, Fool, Dummling)
Companion (Friend, Sidekick, Right Arm, Consort)
Damsel (Princess)
Destroyer (Attila, Mad Scientist, Serial Killer, Spoiler)
Detective (Spy, Double Agent, Sleuth, Snoop, Sherlock Holmes, Private Investigator, Profiler)
Dilettante (Amateur)
Don Juan (Casanova, Gigolo, Seducer, Sex Addict)
Engineer (Architect, Builder, Schemer)
Exorcist (Shaman)
Father (Patriarch, Progenitor)
Femme Fatale (Black Widow, Flirt, Siren, Circe, Seductress, Enchantress)
Gambler
God (Adonis)
Goddess
Gossip
Guide (Guru, Sage, Crone, Wise Woman, Spiritual Master, Evangelist, Preacher)
Healer (Wounded Healer, Intuitive Healer, Caregiver, Nurse, Therapist, Analyst, Counselor)
Hedonist (Bon Vivant, Chef, Gourmet, Gourmand, Sybarite)
Hero/Heroine
Judge (Critic, Examiner, Mediator, Arbitrator)
King (Emperor, Ruler, Leader, Chief)
Knight
Liberator
Lover
Martyr
Mediator (Ambassador, Diplomat, Go-Between)
Mentor (Master, Counselor, Tutor)
Messiah (Redeemer, Savior)
Midas/Miser
Monk/Nun (Celibate)
Mother (Matriarch, Mother Nature)
Mystic (Renunciate, Anchorite, Hermit)
Networker (Messenger, Herald, Courier, Journalist, Communicator)
Pioneer (Explorer, Settler, Pilgrim, Innovator)
Poet
Priest (Priestess, Minister, Rabbi, Evangelist)
Prince
Prostitute
Queen (Empress)
Rebel (Anarchist, Revolutionary, Political Protester, Nonconformist, Pirate)
Rescuer
Saboteur
Samaritan
Scribe (Copyist, Secretary, Accountant)
Seeker (Wanderer, Vagabond, Nomad)
Servant (Indentured Servant)
Shape-shifter (Spell-caster)
Slave
Storyteller (Minstrel, Narrator)
Student (Disciple, Devotee, Follower, Apprentice)
Teacher (Instructor)
Thief (Swindler, Con Artist, Pickpocket, Burglar, Robin Hood)
Trickster (Puck, Provocateur)
Vampire
Victim
Virgin
Visionary (Dreamer, Prophet, Seer)
Warrior (Soldier, Crime Fighter, Amazon, Mercenary, Soldier of Fortune, Gunslinger, Samurai)

Tip#13 Camera Settings

Wednesday, February 1st, 2006

No matter what (digital) camera you own, if you use jpeg files (as opposed to RAW) there are 3 basic settings that you should set.

  1. Minimum contrast. This will usually be -2. Although your picture will look more washed out straight from the camera, you’ll capture a wider range of tones. This way, you’ll have more detail in your extreme highlights and shadows. You can put the contrast back in Photoshop (a must have!).
  2. Minimum saturation. Again, usually -2. Saturation is a measure of how colourful your photo will look. The problem with much gig photography is that light of only one colour is often used to light the stage, such as red. Cameras struggle to record a scene if it consists of only one colour, all the detail is burnt out if the saturation settings are high. Lowering your saturation setting means you’ll keep detail in your photo if the scene only consists of one colour.
  3. Minimum sharpening. Usually -2. Almost all digital cameras have a filter in front of the sensor that slightly blurs the image. This helps to avoid jagged diagonal lines in your shots, amongst other reasons. Photoshop is much better at putting that sharpness back than your camera.

If you follow the above tips, you won’t have problems with images such as these:

Steve VaiĀ 
Goldfrapp DancerĀ 

Texas

Tip#12 Get Published!

Tuesday, January 31st, 2006

Okay, so you’ve followed tip#1. You’ve approached a music venue, and you give them free shots in return for letting you in to photograph all the local bands.
You’ve also followed tip#2, and always make sure that lots of photos show audience and atmosphere.
You use tip#4 so that you can get good lighting with your basic lenses and you’re bearing in mind tips 8, 9 and 11 when you can afford to upgrade your lenses.
You always remember tip#6, the giveaway of an amateur photographer.
And wherever possible you use tip#7 which will make your shots look professional.
When you can say yes to all of the above, you’re probably ready to start trying to get your photos published.
Make sure your portfolio is up to scratch… show it to some professional photographers and ask them if you’re ready for this step.
If so, make sure you have a good online portfolio. Get yourself a good website with a catchy domain name. Don’t cut corners here, image is important… especially for a photographer!
And now you find as many publications as you can, they can be purely online as well as in print. Offer your services for free or for cheap. Unfortunately, loads of other photographers will also be doing this and you need to be competitive until you get a name for yourself. Find as many places as possible that might be interested in photos. The more versatile you are, the better. You may need to shoot general news or portraits to get published. Go for it, the more experience you can get the better. Don’t get discouraged! Stay enthusiastic. Be friendly. Persevere. Build connections. Network. Get yourself out there. Be proactive… nobody can tell you exactly how to do this, but it’s how you start to build up a career as a photographer! Be patient. As you get more work, you can start charging more and being more selective. If you’re good enough it will all happen in good time with hard work. Good luck!